김영대 Y. D. Kim , 김창규 C. K. Kim , 이충남 C. N. Lee , 하병조 B. J. Ha , 이우영 W. Y. Lee

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Abstract

A new and unique class of nonionic surfactants was synthesized by reacting biological a-tocopherol with ethylene oxide for functional cosmetics. The structures were confirmed by Hl-UMR, FT-lR, TLC and elemental analysis. POV and conjugated diene value study for EPO showed POE(n)TE had antioxidative effect similar to tocopheryl acetate. Protective effect on cell membrane in photohemolysis of POE(5)TE, POE(10)TE and POE(18)TE were slightly lower than tocopherol but higher than nonoxynol-12, and POE(10)TE had UV absorption power comparable with tocopherol and homosalate. Biological activity of the hydrophobic group of the new surfactants make them unique and different from those of conventional nonionic surfactants. Systematic safety evaluations of POE(n)TEs on the skin and eye proved that they are as safe as tocopherol. The results of physicochemical study showed POE(10)TE had the lowest CMC value, POE(18)TE had the maximum surface tension reduction and the highest foam volume and POE(n)TEs had various HLB values by the degree of ethoxylation. The test results of technological and practical applications of these surfactants for cosmetics showed some POE(n)TEs were superior to conventional surfactants. POE(5)TE in W/O emulsions, POE(10)TE and POE(12)TE in O/W emulsions, POE(12)TE in dispersions, POE(18)TE in solubilizations and POE(50)TE in gelations were shown to be excellent which was considered due to the structural characteristic and formation of liquid crystals of POE(n)TEs. By the development and applications of these excel lent multi-functional surfactants, innovative functional cosmetics were successfully formulated.

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최종완 J. O. Choi

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Abstract

In order to investigate the effect of nonionic surfactants on the antimicrobial activity of preservatives in the presence and absence of p.0.E(20) Sorbitan fatty acid ester commonly used in cosmetics and pharmaceutical systems, these experiments were carried out by determining Minimum Inhibitory Concentration(MIC) values and MIC values of adaptation against test organisms. And also the inactivation of the preservative against each microorganism in formula added with various concentrations of P.0.E(20) Sorbitan monostearate were measured by use of a preservative death time curve The results obtained were as fort low : 1) Nonionic surfactant inactivated Methylparaben to varying extents, but not Imidazolidinyl urea. 2) A combined preservative system was inactivated to a little extent (range of 0.16-0.20% Conc.), no adaptation was observed for the 5. aureus ATCC 6538. Imidazolidinyl urea complex combined with Methylparaben had a broad antibacterial spectrum against the Gram(.) and the Gram(-) bacteria. It was found that preservatives had a synergistic effect by use of mixed form of preservatives. 3) In formula preserved with 0.2% Methylparaben containing 0.5, 1.0 and 2.0% P.0.E(20) Sorbitan monostearate, E. coli ATCC 10s36 and P. aeruginosa NCTC 10490 died quickly within in 2hr.. 4) However, from Fig.5, S. aereus ATCC 6538 died more slowly within increasing surfactant concentration and the D-values(Decimal reduction time) were 5.2, 8 and 14 hr. for samples containing 0.5, 1 0 and 2.0% P 0. E(20) Sorbitan monostearate, respectively. 5) In the case of Methylparaben, no adaptation for the E. coli ATCC 10536 6) All of the nonionic surfactant, p.0. E(20) Sorbitan fatty acid ester used in the experiments decreased the effectiveness of Methylparaben, but not of Imidazolidinyl urea.

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강상진 S. J. K. Ang , 홍성돈 S. D. Hong , 조완구 W. G. Cho , 채쾌 Q. Chae

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Abstract

Considerable interest has been generated in age-related non-enzymatic glycosylation and crosslinking of collagen in view of its extracellular nature, and its long biological half-life. The effects of UVA, which penetrates deep in dermis, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) on age- related changes of dermal collagen were studied. The amount of nonenzymatic glycosylation, fragmentation, and crosslinking of collagen were monitored from the mixtures of Type I collagen from calf skin and glucose, irradiated by UVA, with or without scavengers of ROS. At both high and low glucose dosages, non-enzymatic glycosylation was not affected by UVA irradiation. At high glucose dosage, however, glycosylation was reduced by the scavengers of superoxide radical and singlet oxygen, bolt not by hydroxyl radical scavengers. Fragmentation was increased by UVA and decreased by all ROS scavengers. Crosslinking was also enhanced by UVA, and effectively blocked crosslinking. Superoxide radical and singlet oxygen, which were produced by autoxidation of glucose independently to UVA, may encounter the initial phase of glycation. ROS generated from Amadory compounds by UVA enhanced fragmentation and crosslinking Hydroxyl radical was thought to be a major ROS affecting crosslinking. These results suggest that UVA and ROS are able to enhance age-related structural changes of collagen, as affecting many other tissue and cellular components

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김진준 J. J. Kim , 박문억 M. E. Park , 강세훈 S. H. Kang

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Abstract

Hairless mice (Skh:HR-1) exposed to single doses (0.5, 1.0 and 3. OMED) of UV-B radiation were displayed remarkable changes of barrier function and surface morphology. Trans- epidermal water loss (TEWL) as an index of barrier function was measured by evaporimeter, and wrinkle density (WD) as an index of morphological alteration was measured by image analyzer. Significant changes of TEWL were not observed in the control and 0. SMED group, but 1.OMED and 3. OMED groups noted significant difference. TEWL of 3. OMED group was rapidly increased to the 3rd day and decreased until the 14th day when it reached nearly to normal level, Time-courses of TBWL for 1. OMEB and 3. OMED groups displayed similar pattern, but different only in the magnitude. WD were significantly decreased during the 3rd-5th day in all of the irradiated groups and then increased during the last period to the 14th day, but did not recover the normal level at the 14th day. Time-courses of WD for all groups exhibited similarity, and were entirely dependent on the exposed doses. We also observed histological changes which included hyperplasia, sunburn cell (SBC) formation, accumulation of polymorphonuclear leukocyte (PMNs), and loss of collagen of UVB- exposed hairless mouse skin. Changes of TEWL and WD are helpful in understanding of epidermal and dermal damages by single exposure of UVB

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조병기 B. K. Jo , 김창규 C. K. Kim , 이충남 C. N. Lee , 이옥섭 O. S. Lee

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Abstract

Polypeptide has been used broadly as an active ingredient in cosmetics We thought it is very important to investigate the adsorption behavior of polypeptide in order to pre-estimate the effect of these polypeptides. For the study of polypeptide adsorption, we have investigated complex formation of basic homopolypeptides, poly(L-proline) Form I [PLP(I)], Form II [PLP(II)] and poly(4-hydroxy-L-proline) (PHLP) with acidic homopolypeptides, poly(L-glutamic acid) (PLGA), poly(D-glutamic acid) (PDGA) and poly(L-aspartic acid) (PLAA) through hydrogen bonding in a hydroalcoholic medium with viscometer, 1ight scatter, pH meter and circular dicroism (CD). The polypeptides used in this study have helical structure in some conditions. The result exhibited that al 1 the complexes were formed as the composition of basic/acidic homopolypeptide : L:2 irrespective of the complex systems used. A more favorable complex is formed in the PLP(II)-PLGA system than PHLP-PLGA because PLP(II) has a more flexible helical conformation, whereas PHLP has a more rigid helical conformation. The right-handed helix PLGA formed the complex favorably and quickly with the left-handed helix PLP(II), whereas the left-handed helix PDGA formed the complex favorably with the right-handed helix PLP(I). The effect of side chain of the acidic homopolypeptides on the complexation was also studied. The result showed that more favorable condition for the complexation was PLGA-PLP(II) system which has longer side chain at acidic homopolypeptide than PLAA - PLP(II). All the above facts were well supported by CD measurement for the complex systems. By the CD spectra for the complexes we could deduce the conformational change of each homopolypeptide in the complexes On the basis of the above results, we performed the adsorption test of PLP(I, II) and PHLP on the hair having a left-handed helix. The adsorption amount of each polypeptide was analyzed by HPLC. The result showed that PLP(I) was adsorbed more than PLP(II), PLP(II) was adsorbed more than PHLP on the hair. On adsorbing polypeptides having a helical structure on the hair through hydrogen bonding, it could be concluded that the helical polypeptides having the opposite directional structure to the hair are adsorbed more than those having the same directional structure with the hair and also the polypeptides having a flexible conformation are adsorbed more than those having a rigid conformation

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윤중 , 진병갑

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Abstract

This study relates to a microemulsion gel which is applied in various cosmetic preparations because of good appearance, superior stability and a thin, uniform, non-greasy fi Am on the skin. Main object of this study is to elucidate the influence of polyol(clarifying agent and/or coupling agent in microemulsion) on microemulsion and to establish the optimum conditions for microemulsion gel formation in the view of superior consistency, stability, clarity and pick-up from a container. The constituents of the system are composed of water, polar ester oi1, nonionic surfactant and polyol. Using the three-component phase diagram and the tetrahedral-phase diagram, we have investigated the changes of transparence regions, consistency and resonance effect by an impact in microemulsion gel varying in polyol ratio. The results of this study showed that the variation in the content of water and couple ins agent has major influence on the microemulsion gel and the optimum formation region of microemulsion gel is the widest when the ratio of glycerine(coupling agent) to water is 63-75% It is believed that optimum use of polyol seems to be helpful to obtain the microemulsion gel containing maximum amount of oil phase with minimum amount of surfactant which is recently one of the major problems of cosmetic chemists.

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